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Qantara - Cloth fragment with decorations of stars, medallions, and an inscription
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Qantara Qantara

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Cloth fragment with decorations of stars, medallions, and an inscription

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RELATED ITEMS
 

Cloth fragment with decorations of stars, medallions, and an inscription

  • Title/name : Cloth fragment with decorations of stars, medallions, and an inscription
  • Production place : Egypt
  • Date / period : Fourteenth century
  • Materials and techniques : Linen; printed decorations
  • Dimensions : 41cm x 36cm
  • Conservation town : Cairo
  • Conservation place : The Museum of Islamic Art
  • Inventory number : 8204
  • Inscription :

    In thuluth script: ‘Patience is blessed with success and everything has an end’

The decorations are printed in blue on a white ground. The band consists of a thuluth inscription. This script was greatly prized by the Mamluks and has markedly stylized characteristics: the letters are slightly inclined and their vertical lines are extended. Here, the free spaces between the vertical strokes are decorated with braided patterns that were widely used in textiles, metals, and wood. The inscription is a saying that refers to the patience that leads to victory and recalls that everything comes to an end. The mention of the word Nasr (victory) may refer to Sultan al-Nāsir al-Dīn Muhammad ibn Qalā’ūn, who governed for three periods in the past (reigned 1294–1295, 1299–1309, and 1309–1340).

In the lower section decorations develop on four rows, in alternating and staggered rows, a repetitive decoration composed of three motifs, eight-pointed stars and circular motifs linked by ‘knots of happiness’. Their centres are adorned with various elements—like woven and radiating designs, pearled strips, and palmettes—that are often seen on metalwork from the same era.

The decorations on this piece were printed using a wooden block. It existed in two types, with raised and sunken designs, where the decorations, in contrast to the raised type, appeared in the background colour of the textile. Another printing technique consisted of placing wax to isolate the designs before adding the dye (called batik). During the archaeological digs in the town of Fūstat, many fragments of textiles of dyed and printed cotton were discovered: the Museum of Islamic Art in Cairo holds a great many of these.

The practice of dying and printing textiles is an ancient art in Egypt. One of the oldest textiles discovered in Fayyum is a piece of dyed linen several thousand years old. Other textiles that are perhaps Neolithic have also been discovered in the tombs of the village of Merimda Bani Salama to the west of the Delta. In the Pharaonic era, textile dyeing, often printed in red, was common and a large amount of material attesting to this practice has been discovered in the tombs. In the first centuries of Islam, this process seems to have diminished, perhaps because of the proliferation of other decorative techniques. In the Mamluk era, India—famous for its textiles in printed cotton—influenced Egyptian productions with its exports.

BIBLIOGRAPHY RELATED TO THE ITEM

حمدي، أحمد، وآخرون. كتالوج معرض الفن الإسلامي في مصر. القاهرة، 1969.

ماهر، سعاد. النسيج الإسلامي. القاهرة، 1977. 

Atil, E., Renaissance of Islam: Art of the Mamluks, Washington, Smithsonian institution press, 1981.

Baker, P., Islamic Textiles, London, British Museum Press, 1995.

O’Kane, B. (éd.), The treasures of Islamic Art in the Museum of Cairo, Cairo, The American university press, 2005.




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