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Tapestry Orbiculus
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- Title/name : Tapestry Orbiculus
- Production place : Coptic or Muslim Egypt
- Date / period : Sixth–eighth century
- Materials and techniques : Dyed wool weft over linen warp, flying shuttle decoration
- Conservation town : Paris
- Conservation place : Musée de l'Institut du Monde Arabe
- Inventory number : AI 04-04
This tapestry medallion adorned a garment, tablecloth, blanket or cushion. It was made by the Copts, the Christians of Egypt, either during the period when Egypt was Byzantine or during the Muslim era, after the Arab conquests of 641.
The decoration was made using a “flying shuttle” – a shuttle, containing a white thread, produced the design by moving over different parts of the piece.
The geometric decorative composition, dominated by a central square surrounded by four diamonds, strongly resembles the mosaic floors of the early centuries of the Christian era. These mosaics, of which there are many in the Mediterranean region, are particularly eloquent in the House of the Porticoes and the House of Dionysus and Ariadne in Antioch (present-day Antakya). They are found in the Church of the Nativity and many other sites in Bethlehem.
These complex decorations, arranged in a disc that was placed on the top of the tunic, at shoulder level, took of a symbolic meaning among the Byzantines. The IMA orbiculus features a quadripartite division whose principal elements are linked together by small tracks: it is a labyrinth representing the universe and was quite rightly known as an orbiculus: “a small world”. The purplish brown colour– probably obtained through the superposition of indigo and madder red – imitates Phoenician purple, the mysterious dye reserved for emperors, and of which Levantine craftsmen kept the secret. In the mosaics representing Justinian, Theodora and their court (sixth century) in San Vitale, Ravenna, labyrinths, inscribed in discs or squares, appear on the garments of the great dignitaries. In the mosaic dedicated to the sacrifice of Abel and Melchizedek, they decorate the altar cloth.
Whatever the significance of the decoration, this weaving technique invented by the Copts, and which consists of inserting into a linen cloth a dyed wool tapestry, existed for several centuries. It survived in Muslim Egypt until the twelfth century, under the name kubati: “in the Coptic style”. The technique was probably brought to Andalusia by Egyptian weavers during the Córdoba caliphate.
Martiniani-Reber, M., Tissus coptes, Musée d'Art et d'Histoire de Genève, Genève, 1991, vol. 1, n° 17, p. 45, vol. 2, p. 10.
Triling, J., The Roman Heritage Textiles from Egypte and the Eastern Mediterranean, 300 to 600 ABD, Textile Museum Journal, 21, Washington, 1892, p. 104-108.
Bénazeth, D., "L'utilisation des tissus pour le vêtement et l'ameublement", in Au fil du Nil, Couleur de l'Egypte chrétienne, (cat. expo., Musée Dobrée, Nantes, 2001-2002), Nantes, 2001p. 59-61.
Bénazeth, D., Durand, M., Rutschowscaya, M.-H., "Le rapport de l'objet copte à l'écrit. Des textiles au vêtement liturgiques", in Egyptes... L'Egyptien et le copte, (cat. exp. Musée archéologique Henri Prades, Lattes, 1999), Lattes, 1999, p. 145-156.
Durand, M., Saragoza, F., Egypte, la trame de l'histoire, Textiles phraraoniques, coptes et islamiques, (cat. exp. Musée des Anitiquité de Rouen, 2002-2003, Musée des Beaux-arts et d'Archéologie Josèphe Déchelette, Roanne, 2003, Institut du Monde Arabe, Paris, 2004), 2002.
Rutschowscaya, M.-H., Tissus coptes, 1990, Paris.
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