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Fragment of the bottom portion of a dalmatic kept in Sion
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- Title/name : Fragment of the bottom portion of a dalmatic kept in Sion
- Production place : Istanbul (Constantinople), Turkey
- Discovery place : Sion, treasury of the church of Valère, Switzerland
- Date / period : Eleventh century
- Materials and techniques : Figured samite; silk; white linen sewing thread
- Dimensions : H. 51, 3 cm; W. 107,5 cm
- Conservation town : Sion
- Conservation place : Church of Valère, Musées cantonaux du Valais
The characteristic cut clearly indicates that this fragment comprises the bottom portion of a liturgical vestment, probably a dalmatic. Currently kept in the church of Valère, as part of an impressive collection of medieval fabrics having served as relic shrouds, it came from the cathedral of Sion where it was discovered in 1923.
The large-scale decoration of large medallions makes it hard to believe that this prestigious silk would be cut to make a garment. However, we are aware of – particularly through miniatures – of examples of clothes made from fabrics with large medallions, as shown in the depiction[1] of one of the courtiers of Emperor Nicephorus III Botaneiates, in around 1071–81.
Large medallions, tangential to the band made up of aligned flowerets, contain outlined griffins. As in the art of Sasanian Persia, the joints of the bodies of these fantastic animals are marked with rosettes or other embellishments. Other circular motifs decorate the intermediary space above the griffins’ hindquarters and the upper part of the medallion.
The use of purple suggests that the fabric was a diplomatic gift, although it is also possible that it was booty from the Fourth Crusade. The production of luxury silks for the court and diplomatic missions was undertaken either by official workshops or by highly regulated private workshops, such as those mentioned in the Book of the Prefect[2].
The silk’s polychromy is dominated by the vivid violet of the purple highlighted on the black background through the contrast with the yellow. The white weft was only used to accentuate the ornamental shape of the griffins’ eyes.
Few fabrics dyed with purple, a dyestuff known since classical antiquity, have survived. There are several examples in Palmyra while others have been found, in a fragmentary state, in Europe[3]. The Sion silk is the most prestigious example.
[1] Homélies de Jean Chrysostome, Paris, BnF, cod. Coislin 79, fol. 2r.
[2] A work published by Emperor Leo VI (886–911).
[3] Teintures précieuses de la Méditerranée, 1999, 96–100.
Schmedding, B., Mittelalterliche Textilien in Kirchen und Klöstern der Schweiz, Berne, 1978, Stämpfli, p. 250-252.
Teintures précieuses de la Méditerranée, cat. exp., Carcassone, 1999, Musée des beaux-arts, p. 104, n°26.
Tintes preciosos del Mediterràneo, cat. exp., Terrassa, 1999, Centro de documentacio i Museu textil.
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