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Piece of tirâz
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- Title/name : Piece of tirâz
- Production place : Fayyum, Egypt
- Date / period : Ninth century
- Materials and techniques : Weft: cotton thread; decorations of wool and tapestry
- Conservation town : Cairo
- Conservation place : The Museum of Islamic Art
- Inscription :
In Kūfic letters: ‘Happiness and wealth for the owner’ and ‘private tirāz’
This piece of shawl or turban is a fragment of tirāz (an embroidered decorative band on fabrics) with a black ground, which terminates in twisted fringes made from the warp threads. Its decorations are organized in two horizontal bands placed at the extremities of the piece, which is characteristic of this fabrication. The main one is framed on either side by two borders around the ocelli. In the centre, brightly coloured motifs of walking camels are separated by rows of white rosettes placed on a red ground. Pairs of stylized animals face each other between these motifs.
In the second, narrower band an inscription in Kūfic characters relates a series of good wishes that also mention the piece’s provenance—the ‘public tirāz’. The flowery vertical strokes and the development of the extremities of the letters indicate attribution to Metwal productions in Fayyum[1], where the practice of the tirāz was active until the tenth to the eleventh centuries. The spaces between the letters are adorned with drawings of small, stylized animals and groups of dots that form geometric motifs.
These bands were produced in caliphal workshops and were embroidered or woven with votive formulae. They mention the name of the sovereign, and sometimes that of the person in charge of the workshop and its place of fabrication. The caliph honoured deserving subjects with these ornaments—this official distinction was part of caliphal prerogatives. The presence on this tirāz of the expression ‘public tirāz’ may indicate the existence of workshops that produced pieces that were also for individuals, probably constructed by Ahmad ibn Tūlūn. A great many of these pieces were less refined and sometimes bore less skilled, or even pseudo inscriptions.
The precise origins of the institution of the tirāz is unknown, although connections with the ancient East have been observed, or with the Roman clavus (bands that hung over the shoulders and ran around behind on the back), the insignia of senators and cavaliers, which were perhaps transmitted to the Islamic world by the Copts and the Byzantine world.
[1] Fayyum is a region of Egypt. It is cited in Goethe’s dictionary and by some historians and geographers, who noted that the urban toponymy of Fayyum was Chdat, which means ‘island’, because during its formation it was located on lake Moeris. Its religious name is Persebek, which means ‘crocodile’ because this animal was venerated by the inhabitants of Fayyum. This led the Romans to call it crocodilopolis the ‘town of the crocodile’, and the Copts gave it the name of Phiom, which was then pronounced Fayyūm by the Arabs.
1 – زكى محمد حسن : فنون الاسلام طبعة دار الفكر العربى
2 – محمد عبد العزيز مرزوق : الزخرفة المنسوجة فى الاقمشة الفاطمية القاهرة سنة 1942. ص 28 – 29
3- محمد عباس محمد سليم : طراز جديد من نسيج الفيوم فى العصر الاسلامى دراسات أثارية أسلامية العدد الخامس
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