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Fragment of a shawl with a fringe
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- Title/name : Fragment of a shawl with a fringe
- Production place : Fayyum, Egypt
- Date / period : Second half of the eleventh century
- Materials and techniques : Woollen cloth with a strip of tapestry in linen and wool
- Dimensions : Height: 31 cm; Length: 66.5 cm; Fringes: 7.5 cm
- Conservation town : Paris
- Conservation place : The Musée national du Moyen Âge-Thermes de Cluny, Paris
- Inventory number : Cl. 22491
- Required notices, acquisition, donation, legacy, deposit : bequeathed by M. Guérin in 1948
This fragment of a woollen shawl in blue-black has a band of tapestry, which consists of two pseudo-calligraphic bands that mirror each other’s pattern. This band is woven in white linen on a blue-black background and is characterized by a repetitive motif with high upstrokes that end in fleurons. The central, narrower decorative band is divided into red or beige oblong sections, which contain beige, red, yellow, and blue motifs that are circular and cruciform in shape. This motif is similar to that on the linen fragment with decorative bands (JFB M 160) from the Bouvier[1] collection. Below this a red band accentuated by a band composed of a network of red lines runs along the edge of the shawl. Finally, the composition is completed by a fringe composed of blue threads from the background cloth.
The pseudo-calligraphy on this fragment is reminiscent of the tirāz textiles produced in Fayyum. The term tirāz refers both to the public and private workshops that produced this type of textile and the inscription bands that were made in them. These tirāz bands were mainly used to decorate the caliph’s ceremonial clothing. They often bore a blessing and sometimes mentioned the caliph’s name. The pseudo-inscription allows comparisons to be made between this shawl and textiles bearing an inscription in flowered Kufic script from the tirāz workshops of the Caliphs al-‘Azīz (975–996) and al-Hākim (996–1021) in the second half of the eleventh century. This type of pseudo-calligraphy is found on other Fayyum textiles, as can be seen on the fragment of shawl (JFB I 54) from the Bouvier[2] collection.
The use of pseudo-characters was also common in Coptic bands of tapestry used to decorate tunics. These characters are also found on woollen shawls from Fayyum, sometimes combined with motifs in linen. The dyes used, like that used for the red for example, tell us that trade existed between Mediterranean region and India. During the Fatimid period, the countries in the Mediterranean region were no longer able to acquire dyes locally. They therefore had to import these raw materials from India, amongst which was the animal-based lacquer that the Venetian merchants went to buy in Egypt where they set up trading centres.
The central band bearing geometric motifs was influenced by Coptic motifs. Coptic traditions continued on Fatimid textiles, as shown by the band of tapestry on the background cloth that enables a decorative motif to be added to the textile. The linen that was very often used on these textiles is a raw material that has existed in Egypt since Antiquity, while the wool came from Greece.
[1] Tissus d’Égypte. Témoins du monde arabe, VIIIe-XVe siècles, exhibition catalogue, Musée d’art et d’histoire, Geneva, and the Institut du monde arabe, Paris, 1993–1994, cat. 137, p. 231.
[2] Ibid., p. 150, cat. 80.
Égypte, la trame de l’histoire ; Textiles pharaoniques, coptes et islamiques, exhibition catalogue, Institut du monde arabe, Paris, Somogy, 2002, p. 200, cat. 167
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