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Tapestry with geometric decoration (Akhlal)
- Title/name : Tapestry with geometric decoration (Akhlal)
- Production place : Algeria, Soummam, Lesser Kabylia
- Discovery place : Algeria, Soummam, Lesser Kabylia
- Date / period : Nineteenth century
- Materials and techniques : Dovetailed wool tapestry
- Dimensions : L. 3.65 m; W. 1.70 m
- Conservation town : Algiers
- Conservation place : Musée national des Antiquités et des Arts islamiques
- Inventory number : II.T.27
This tapestry is named Akhlal after the reed, usually made of metal, which is used to weave it, that is, to pack the weft tightly on the warp to produce the woven fabric and the pattern. This tapestry is made up of three wide cream-coloured bands, of which only the two lateral ones are woven in madder red with black and yellow heightening. Motifs of waves, chevrons, combs, diamonds and chains arranged in overlaying compartments liven up the surface.
Weaving, a craft reserved for women whose symbolic and social value is much greater than its decorative value, is a real language in which meaning is conveyed by motifs and colours. Algerian weaving, which is renowned for the rich array of signs it comprises, reflects the history and origin of the weaver.
The motifs in this register composition are mainly the geometric motifs found in all North African weaving. However, the way they are interpreted varies from one region to another. This repertoire of designs is widely represented on North Africa’s Berber pottery. The motifs are based mainly on pastoral life, tools and objects used in daily life or rites of magic such as weaving combs, candlesticks, keys, pomegranate seeds, earrings, fibulae, olive trees and eyes.
This repertoire may maintain links with Asia Minor, where the context of production, the geometric repertoire and the varied colours dominated by red are all similar. Some patterns that show up in Kabylian weaving are definitely of ancient origin, such as the triangle, commonly used in North African rugs, which symbolises the earth, accompanied by cosmic signs of fertility. In Carthage the triangle symbolises the goddess Tanit, whose arms suggest the shape of a bull’s horns, a stylization closely related to the figure of the present-day Soummam Valley. The comb motif also has a symbolic meaning related to fertility.
This repertoire is constantly being enriched over time by new creations and decorations. But they all seem to be inspired by the same source: they are mainly adaptations of oriental patterns, in particular from Asia Minor. The Ottoman domination asserted itself not only politically, but also in the arts and in weaving, where the influences were adapted to the needs of users and their interiors. The vegetal designs that are combined with geometric motifs are, in any case, a source of unceasing pleasure for the eyes.
Bel, A., Le travail de la laine à Tlemcen, les industries indigènes de l’Algérie, Alger : A. Jourdan, 1913.
Laoust-Chantréaux, G., Kabylie côté femmes, la vie féminine à Ait Hichem, 1937-1939, Aix-en-Provence : Édisud, 1990.
Moreau, J.B., Les grands symboles méditerranéens dans la poterie algérienne, Alger : S.N.E.D., 1976.
Makilan, Signes et rituels magiques des femmes Kabyles, Aix-en-Provence : Édisud, 1999.
Tissage d'Algérie, expressions ancestrales tissées, (cat. expo. Ministère de la Culture), 2004.
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