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RELATED ITEMS
Nasrid textile fragment with geometric motifs
This textile fragment, which was most likely
meant to be used for clothing or furnishings, was probably produced in the workshops
of Granada, well-known
in the fourteenth and fifteen centuries for producing silks, which were
exported far and wide. Its decoration was one of the most widespread, as
numerous examples may now be found in various collections.
This figured silk is a weft-patterned lampas, the
technique for which spread to Andalusia through
Eastern models.
The decoration is divided among multiple registers
in which red predominates; the many geometric motifs reinforce the marquetry effect
produced by the eight-pointed stars. The sets of polygons and their colours are
reminiscent of the decoration of the ceramics, mosaics and stuccoes of the Court
of the Lions at the Alhambra.
It is for this reason that certain scholars describe these textiles as being in
the “Alhambra
style”.
The merlons, or “Nasrid pines”, repeated on the
selvedge of the cloth resemble those crowning the façades of the Great Mosque
of Córdoba. The decoration of the textile also includes inscriptions in Arabic,
in different calligraphies; the words “happiness”
and “prosperity” can be made
out; they were perhaps produced during the reign of Muhammad V.
The textile workshops of Granada continued to operate after the capture
of the city, thanks to the participation of the Moriscos. They benefitted from
the protection of the authorities, which, during the expulsions, granted “exemptions
to spinners and dyers because indigenous Christians did not know this art”.
There is a similar fragment in the Metropolitan Museum
in New York[1].
Similar textiles may be found in various museums: the Museo Arqueológico Nacional, the Musée des Tissus et Musée des
Arts décoratifs de Lyon, the Instituto de Valencia de Don Juan and the Hispanic
Society of America.
NOTE
N° INV. 29.22 Fletcher Fund, 1929
REFERENCE BIBLIOGRAPHY
Ecker, H. Caliphs and Kings. The Art and influence of
Islamic Spain, Washington/New-York : Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian
Institution/Hispanic Society of America, 2004.
López
Redondo, A. “Tejido nazarí” Los Reyes
Católicos y Granada, Madrid, 2004.
Partearroyo,
C. “Seda nazarí”. Al-Andalus, las
Artes Islámicas en España. Madrid,
1992.
Partearroyo,
C. “Seda nazarí”. Ibn Jaldún. El Mediterráneo en el siglo XIV. Seville :
Fundación el legado andalusi, 2006.
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