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Nasrid textile fragment with geometric motifs
- Title/name : Nasrid textile fragment with geometric motifs
- Production place : Grenada
- Date / period :
Fourteenth–fifteenth century
- Materials and techniques : Lampas, silk
- Dimensions : H.103,5, L. 41 cm
- Conservation town : Madrid
- Conservation place : Fondation Lazaro Galdiano
- Inventory number : 1694
This textile fragment, which was most likely meant to be used for clothing or furnishings, was probably produced in the workshops of Granada, well-known in the fourteenth and fifteen centuries for producing silks, which were exported far and wide. Its decoration was one of the most widespread, as numerous examples may now be found in various collections.
This figured silk is a weft-patterned lampas, the technique for which spread to Andalusia through Eastern models.
The decoration is divided among multiple registers in which red predominates; the many geometric motifs reinforce the marquetry effect produced by the eight-pointed stars. The sets of polygons and their colours are reminiscent of the decoration of the ceramics, mosaics and stuccoes of the Court of the Lions at the Alhambra. It is for this reason that certain scholars describe these textiles as being in the “Alhambra style”.
The merlons, or “Nasrid pines”, repeated on the selvedge of the cloth resemble those crowning the façades of the Great Mosque of Córdoba. The decoration of the textile also includes inscriptions in Arabic, in different calligraphies; the words “happiness” and “prosperity” can be made out; they were perhaps produced during the reign of Muhammad V.
The textile workshops of Granada continued to operate after the capture of the city, thanks to the participation of the Moriscos. They benefitted from the protection of the authorities, which, during the expulsions, granted “exemptions to spinners and dyers because indigenous Christians did not know this art”.
There is a similar fragment in the Metropolitan Museum in New York[1]. Similar textiles may be found in various museums: the Museo Arqueológico Nacional, the Musée des Tissus et Musée des Arts décoratifs de Lyon, the Instituto de Valencia de Don Juan and the Hispanic Society of America.
Ecker, H. Caliphs and Kings. The Art and influence of Islamic Spain, Washington/New-York : Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution/Hispanic Society of America, 2004.
López Redondo, A. “Tejido nazarí” Los Reyes Católicos y Granada, Madrid, 2004.
Partearroyo, C. “Seda nazarí”. Al-Andalus, las Artes Islámicas en España. Madrid, 1992.
Partearroyo, C. “Seda nazarí”. Ibn Jaldún. El Mediterráneo en el siglo XIV. Seville : Fundación el legado andalusi, 2006.
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