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Earrings
- Title/name : Earrings
- Production place : Algeria, Qal‘a des Banu Hammad
- Date / period : 1130-1269 ou 1229-1574
- Materials and techniques : Incised silver and filigree
- Dimensions : 3 cm; weight: 2 gr.; bead: D. 1.4 cm
- Conservation town : Setif
- Conservation place : National Museum of Setif
- Inventory number : bjx.08 and bjx.09
This pair of earrings has a fairly simple composition: a large bead threaded onto a hoop made of silver wire with rings on either end. The decoration across the surface of the bead is in ‘compartments’ formed of silver wire. The wire delimits seven bands; the four in the middle enclose circles, presumably once in filigree.
The geometric ornamentation of these earrings is simple and draws from a repertoire of motifs characteristic of Islamic civilization. We encounter similar patterns in Umayyad and Abbasid earrings: the lower portion of the circle is decorated with friezes made up of various rosettes formed of small circles[1]. We can also associate these earrings with jewellery from the Fatimid era, often crescent-shaped in gold filigree or solid gold[2]. Certain elements of Berber jewellery are closely related to the bead of these earrings, such as the necklaces made of large balls decorated with cloisonné enamel or filigree, known by the name of tagemmout and tagmoust, their surfaces having the same bands of circular motifs.
Countless sets of jewels show similarities to these earrings, either by their spherical shape, or in their use of the filigree technique. Islamic civilization has always had a predilection for such geometric ornamentation, present in many domains of the decorative arts.
Filigree, a decorative technique much appreciated for its finesse and beauty, was present in Egyptian, Etruscan and Greek civilizations. The technique is thought to have been transmitted to the Mediterranean basin by the Phoenicians. In northern Europe during the Middle Ages, most notably in Scandinavia, filigree was sometimes combined with enamel work. In Italy, the most famous jeweller of the Renaissance, Benvenuto Cellini[3], created some outstanding jewellery in filigree that recalls Oriental Muslim creations, especially those of Egypt.
[1] Earrings, 7th to 8th century, Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst, I. 2333.
[2] Earrings, Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst.
[3] Florentine jeweller and sculptor, born in 1500, who died in Florence in 1571.
“Earrings” in Museum with No Frontiers: Discover Islamic Art, Permanent collection: Algeria [on line]. Available on: <http://www.museumwnf.org/pc_item.php?id=object;ISL;dz;Mus01;43;en> (consulted on: 19/03/08).
Besancenot, J., Costumes du Maroc, Aix-en-Provence: Edisud, 2000, p. 168, pl. H1.
Bourouiba, R., Les H‘ammadites, Algiers: Entreprise nationale du livre, 1984.
Bourouiba, R., “Note sur des bijoux trouvés à la Qal'a des Banu Hammad”, in Bulletin D’archéologie algérienne, t. III, Algiers: 1968.
Eudel, P., Dictionnaire des bijoux de l'Afrique du Nord, Maroc, Algérie, Tripolitaine, Paris: E. Leroux, 1906.
Golvin, L., Recherches archéologiques à la Qal'a des Banû-Hammâd, Paris : G.-P Maisonneuve et Larose, 1965.
Marçais, G., L'art musulman, Paris: PUF, 1962.
Les grands centres urbains au Maghreb central (ex. cat., Algiers, 2007), Algiers: 2007.
“Bijoux” in Encyclopédie Microsoft Encarta [on line]. Available on: <http://fr.encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761553958/bijoux.html> (consulted: 19/03/08).
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