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Headdress of the Infant Don Pedro de Castille
- Title/name : Headdress of the Infant Don Pedro de Castille
- Author : Royal Pantheon of the Monasterio de las Huelgas de Burgos
- Production place : Spain, Al-Andalus
- Date / period : 1189-1221
- Materials and techniques : Silk, threads wrapped with gold and silver, leather, wool; tapestry and embroidery
- Dimensions : 20 x 16 cm
- Conservation town : Burgos
- Conservation place : Monasterio de las Huelgas
- Inventory number : Inv. 00650505
- Inscription :
On the edge of the headdress, at the back of a blue border, inscription in cursive script: "The Lord is my comfort (or my joy)".
This headdress was found in the coffin of the Infant de Castille Don Fernando de la Cerda, the son of Alfonso VII and Leonor of England, who died before his time at 21, in 1211. It was removed from the coffin in 1943 and placed in the museum of the Monasterio de las Huelgas de Burgos. It is in very satisfactory condition. Only one piece, which was cut out, is missing.
This headdress was made of a fabric produced during the Almohad period. The fabric, made according to the tapestry technique, was enhanced with embroidery done with white and bleu silk thread wrapped in the purest gold. It is made up of two parts joined at the crown, and a strip designed to be tied around the neck; a chin piece is fastened to it. The headdress is stuffed with wool. The lining is made of cloth reinforced with strips of gold leather. An inscription, characteristic of the Almohad period, is contrasted in gold and white against a blue background. The ornamentation is placed between parallel bands that contain geometric patterns, among which the "happiness knot" is the most frequent.
According to Ibn Khaldun, the first Almohad sovereigns did not have workshops that specialized in silk and gold fabrics for the sovereigns (tirâz). However, as this piece among others shows, and as attested by Al-Idriss and Al-Himyari, the textile activity was perpetuated, creating luxurious fabrics such as the one in this headdress.
In the XIIIth-XIVth century, in Mamluke Egypt, the manufacture of fabrics with decorations organized in bands was also very widespread. Very often, in addition to animal and floral patterns, script was used[1]. Furthermore, the use of luxurious fabrics ordered from the Muslim workshops was a widespread practice in the Christian kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula in the Middle Ages[2].
This headdress forms a homogenous whole with:
- The fabrics from the Infant's tomb, both those that covered the grave and those used to make his clothing[3].
- The fabric used for the cushion of his sister, Leonor of Castille, who died in 1244[4].
[1] Cf. for example the next piece: Cleveland, The Cleveland Museum of Art, Inv. 50510, published in Atil, E., Renaissance of Islam: art of the Mamluks, Washington (D.C): Smithsonian Institution Press, 1981, p. 234, No. 117.
[2] Cf. for example Torres Balbás, L., "Arte almohade, arte nazarí, arte mudéjar". Madrid: Ed. Plus Ultra, "Ars Hispaniae", Vol. 4, 1949, p. 196
[3] Burgos, Museo de Telas Medievales del Monasterio de Santa María la Real de las Huelgas.
[4] Burgos, Museo de Telas Medievales del Monasterio de Santa María la Real de las Huelgas
Gómez Moreno, M., El Panteón Real des las Huelgas de Burgos. Madrid : Instituto Diego Velázquez, 1946.
Torres Balbás, L., « Arte almohade, arte nazarí, arte mudéjar », Madrid : Ed. Plus Ultra, « Ars Hispaniae », vol. 4, 1949, p. 198-201.
Al-Andalus : the art of Islamic Spain, (exhibition catalog, Grenada, Alhambra /New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1992), New York : J.D. Dodds, 1992, p. 110.
Vestiduras Ricas. El Monasterio de las Huelgas y su época. 1170-1340, (exhibition catalog, Madrid, Palacio Real, 2005), Madrid : Patrimonio nacional, 2005.
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