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Necklace
- Title/name : Necklace
- Production place : Syria or Egypt
- Discovery place : Beqaa region, Lebanon
- Date / period : Twelfth-thirteenth centuries
- Materials and techniques : Gold; filigree, granulation and cloisonné enamel
- Dimensions : Length, 46 cm
- Conservation town : Beirut
- Conservation place : National Museum
- Inventory number : 16154
- Inscription :
Arabic عز دائم وإقبال لصاحبه
- Transcription (fr, eng, esp) :
‘Izz dâ’im wa-iqbâl li-sâhibihi
- Translation :
Perpetual glory and prosperity to its owner
This necklace is part of a group of gold objects from the Beqaa Valley, with no archaeological context, and acquired by the National Museum of Beirut. It is made up of eight balls, ten cylinders and one hollow arc-shaped element, decorated with a geometric pattern that is reminiscent of woven fabric or basketwork, dotted with small balls. This small box was perhaps designed to contain an amulet, as is the case of another object conserved at the National Museum of Damascus[1]; the blue colour of the enamel used here sometimes symbolized protection, in Egypt. The other elements are decorated with symmetrically intertwined spirals, similar to another necklace in the same group. Two balls are in addition ringed with an inscription, embellished with blue enamel, bestowing good wishes on the owner. The style of the calligraphy may be dated to the Ayyubid period or the beginning of the Mamluk period. The components of the necklace are strung on a silk thread. They were perhaps soaked in perfumed oils, as evidenced by some literary sources of the period.
The filigree technique comes from a long-standing Antique Mediterranean tradition. It became very popular in Egypt in the Fatimid period, when many goldsmiths used it on all types of jewellery: necklaces, but also bracelets, rings, etc. As for the cloisonné enamel, it had already been developed during the Roman period, it appears to have been transmitted to the Fatimid by the Byzantines, through craftsmen who emigrated or through diplomatic gifts. It was also practiced in Spain, where it reached the height of aesthetic quality/fashion under the Nasrid. In Egypt, the use of enamel on metal continued under the Ayyubid and the Mamluk, but slowly started to decline. Specimens dating from these periods present more basic, less meticulous work than those from the Fatimid period.
Liban, l’autre rive, (exhibition catalogue, Paris, Arab World Institute, 1998-1999), Paris: Arab World Institute/Flammarion, 1998, pp. 256-257.
Gonzalez, V., "Pratique d’une technique d’art Byzantine chez les fatimides: l’émaillerie sur métal", in Barrucand, M. (dir.), l’Égypte fatimide, son art et son histoire, Paris, 1999, Presses de l’Université de Paris-Sorbonne, p. 197-218.
Jenkins, M., Keene, M., Islamic Jewelry in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1982, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Jenkins, M., "Fatimid Jewelry, Its Subtypes and Influences", in Ars Orientalis,18 , 1988, p. 39-57.
Jenkins, M., "Mamluk Jewelry: Influences and Echoes", in Muqarnas, 5, 1988, p. 29-42.
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